The rest of the night dissolved into legend. The chiva climbed higher into the clouds, its interior a moving party of villancicos , spilled canelazo , and the smell of pine and frijoles. Juliana sat on the roof—the culiona’s famous roof, where couples went to kiss and children went to see the stars—and looked down at the valley. Every window in every farmhouse was lit with a candle. The world looked like a spilled box of sequins.
At midnight, they rolled into Jericó. The whole town was waiting, not for Mass, but for them. The new mayor—a slick, university-educated fool—had tried to cancel the chiva’s parade. But there was La Espantapájaros , grille covered in tinsel, speakers blasting “Lista en Medellín,” and on the roof, a woman in a torn designer shirt, holding a bottle of aguardiente like a scepter.
“No,” said Doña Clara. “But you’re a calculadora . You solve problems.”
And every Christmas Eve, as the chiva rounds that cliffside curve, Juliana leans into the wind and shouts the only prayer she needs: Juliana Navidad A La Colombiana Chiva Culiona
She didn’t return to Toronto. She bought La Espantapájaros from Don Pepe for a symbolic peso, renovated the engine with real parts, and started a new tradition: the Chiva Culiona de los Ausentes —a ride for all the Colombians who’d left, so they could come back for one night, sit on the roof, and remember that joy is not an algorithm. It’s a big, loud, ugly, beautiful bus full of imperfect people, taking the wrong road at the right speed, singing off-key into the abyss.
Don Pepe crossed himself. “La patrona,” he whispered, looking at Juliana. “She has returned.”
“Merry Christmas!” Juliana yelled, and the crowd yelled back, “ Juliana! Juliana Navidad! ” The rest of the night dissolved into legend
“I’m not a mechanic,” Juliana said, pulling out her phone. No signal. Of course.
That’s why she was here. Not for the novena . For the fight.
They danced until dawn. Don Pepe gave her the brass bell from the chiva’s front rail. “So you never forget how to come home,” he said. Every window in every farmhouse was lit with a candle
But this year, the chiva was dying. Don Pepe’s son had moved to Bogotá. The younger generation wanted sleek buses with Wi-Fi, not a 1970s relic that smelled of diesel and damp wool. The town council had declared the chiva “unsafe.” Juliana’s own cousin, Carlos, had sent her a mocking voice note: “Vení a ver el entierro de la tradición, gringa de mierda.”
The December sun blazed over the mountain roads of Antioquia, but inside the painted wooden shell of La Espantapájaros —the Scarecrow—the Christmas spirit was running on pure stubbornness and aguardiente. Juliana gripped the rusty rail of the open-air bus, her knuckles white, as the chiva’s oversized tires kissed the edge of a cliff overlooking a canyon so deep it seemed to swallow the sky.
She hadn’t understood then. Now, bouncing between a man playing a ragged accordion and a woman balancing a tray of natilla and bunuelos , she began to.
So Juliana did the only thing she knew: she improvised. She tore the hem of her linen shirt—a stupidly expensive thing from a Yorkville boutique—and wrapped the hose. She borrowed a woman’s hairspray to seal a leak. She convinced a teenage boy to sacrifice his bicycle’s inner tube for a belt. And when the battery whimpered its last, she ordered everyone out.
The engine coughed. Farted blue smoke. And roared.